We packed up our gear and departed Eagle Trail just south of Tok, Alaska, making our way toward the Canadian border. We were sad to leave Alaska behind, but vowed to return to this beautiful, enchanting place someday. Hopefully that will happen in the not too distant future, and I suspect we’ll start daydreaming and planning for that trip shortly after this one is finished! For now, though, we are fully present in this adventure as the events unfold.
The first day’s drive got us across the border and started us back along the famously jarring Alaska Highway to Whitehorse. Crossing into Canada was again smooth and pleasant, and the officer we dealt with was quite friendly and helpful.
In our quest to find the hot dry air sooner rather than later, we would again make good time getting through Canada. Kluane Lake in the Yukon was one of our favorite locations on this part of the drive; the lake seems to go on forever, and the surrounding landscapes are endlessly beautiful.
After a few days of staying dry and doing day trips, we decided to bite the bullet and get on with what we intended to do – camp in the wilds of Alaska in whatever conditions were presented to us.
Starting in Fairbanks, Alaska, the ride up the Dalton Highway to Deadhorse/Prudhoe Bay is 498 miles one way. From Livengood, the actual beginning of the Dalton, approximately 25% of the road is paved, and in the summer, the rest is gravel, dirt or mud depending on the weather. It is strongly recommended to bring two spare tires, and to carry extra gas for the 239 mile stretch between Coldfoot and Deadhorse where there are no gas stations. Although not recommended, many people travel the road on motorcycles and bicycles. The feeling of accomplishment after such a feat must be incredible. I know it felt pretty awesome for us doing it in the Jeep! The road is challenging and beautiful, and the best way to avoid catastrophe and enjoy the journey is to first do your homework and don’t approach it casually. Once you’re traveling, just take your time. For more detailed information about the Dalton Highway, traveling on it and considerations to take before embarking on this journey, take a look at this page on the Bureau of Land Management website, where you will find a very thorough downloadable PDF guide.
Our first day on the Dalton was grey and wet most of the time, but still provided some interesting scenery. The road parallels the Alaska Pipeline for a good portion of the distance, and there are numerous access points for pipeline maintenance along the way.
After driving through miles upon endless miles of farm country, fields, and rolling hills, the mountains of Glacier National Park became visible on the horizon, and grew bigger with each mile. So, too, did our excitement, as this place was one of our must-see, more highly anticipated stops on our journey. We were teased by patches of blue sky peeking through the thick puffy clouds overhead.
Our third day at Yellowstone started out as beautiful and picturesque, although windy. Mammoth Hot Springs is a center of activity with lodges, stores, campgrounds and hiking trails. We decided to visit a spot with several geothermal features, which can be viewed on foot via a boardwalk, or in a vehicle on a paved loop. We did a little of both, getting the best of both worlds.
After leaving Roswell, we continued to rack up the miles in the New Mexico desert. It seemed to take forever to reach our intended destination, the primitive Three Rivers Campground. We finally arrived after traveling about 10 or 12 miles on Three Rivers Road (which turns to gravel halfway in) off U.S. Highway 54. It was getting late with little daylight remaining, so we got busy setting up camp, opting for the quick backpacking tent and the screen house. Within 5 minutes of arriving at the campsite, we were visited by a hummingbird who was very interested in the red gas cans on the back of the Jeep. He chirped and flitted about, trying to figure out where to drink from, but alas, there was no nectar to be found. He returned a few more times, and my camera was, of course, sleeping on the job.
